Bora Bora – so good they named it twice

la Orana again Boatbloggers ®

Bora Bora – incredible!  One of those names like Timbuktu that is known to the soul but really only as a by-word for things mysterious, far away and possibly never to be known except for the brave few far-adventurers…

So wrote our friend Steve when we told him we were here. And we couldn’t put it better ourselves. After an overnight sail, we finally saw the famous outline on the horizon.

Bora 1

The crossing from Moorea was pretty uneventful, apart from being dive bombed in the night by what must have been a giant albatross with the trots.

Albatross

Bora Bora only got prettier the closer we got.

Bora 3

They have these lovely little huts, where the rich and famous come to relax.

The digs

We thought we might treat ourselves to a couple of nights on land. They are very nice inside and we felt that we deserved a little break.

£9 200 a night

We asked how much they were.

“Seventy five thousand dollars,” they said.

“We’re not buying it, we just want to stay for a couple of nights.”

Seventy Five THOUSAND dollars for a WEEK!

And that doesn’t include breakfast.

We decided to stay on a mooring ball. Which is $30. Much nicer.

The good news was that Andy and Caroline on Kari of Lymington were here, so we met up for dinner at the very exclusive Bora Bora Yacht Club.

Bora Bora Yacht Club

Where the sunsets are particularly lovely.

Bora Bora Sunset

It came as a bit of a surprise to discover that this side of the island, the west, is not generally considered to be that nice! Apparently it’s all a bit commercial. There’s no pleasing some people – it seemed pretty good to us. But the nicest part is supposedly on the east. So the next morning, we let slip of the mooring ball and took the treacherous path round the island.

Route

Ok, so it’s not treacherous like Cape Horn is treacherous, but when the depth starts reading 1.0m and going down, it does cause your heart to beat a little faster.

But it was definitely worth the effort.

Lagoon 3

It’s all very romantic. As they say over here, Boa Bora is ideal for the Newly Weds…

Bora Romance  1

..and Nearly Deads. (No clever comments about which category we fit into thank you very much.)

All in all, the perfect place for a couple of old swingers.

Old Swingers

The snorkelling is spectacular.

Diver Lyn  1

It’s fair to say that we have done a lot of snorkelling over the last few years, and so consider ourselves to be something of experts. In our considered opinion, we have to say that this is some of the best.

Coral garden 3

They call it The Coral Garden.

Coral Garden 2

The water is so clear it’s like swimming in gin. And Ju should know.

https://youtu.be/sxhVhi86Ir0

There’s lots of fish. Little ones…

Fish Swarm 2

and big ones.

Sharks 1  1

But the one thing you miss out here in paradise, is a decent curry. So we decided to turn Domini into the Bora Bora Balti House for a night.

Bora Bora Balti

With chicken saag, daal, rice and all the trimmings. Including Patak’s lime pickle. Woooo woo! Couldn’t get any popadoms though. But we did have the perfect guests.

And a trip to Bora Bora wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Bloody Marys. Restaurant to the stars. Anyone who is anyone has eaten here, from Marlon Brando to Barry Gibb.

Bloody Mary s

And now us.

Bloody Mary s 2

Eat Out To Help Out. We’re a long way from home, but I think we can all agree that we’re doing our bit.

Before we go there is just time for this edition’s Boatblog ® Caption Competition.

Caption Competition

“Just ‘cos you’re wearing a mask, doesn’t mean I have to.”

Better ones than that to the usual address on a ten pound note. And we have a last minute entry for the Arty Farty prize.

“The Clams,” by Ju – featuring the newly discovered underwater setting on the camera. It took five years, but now he’s found it.

Arty Farty Clams 1

And a special tribute to Andy, for his dramatic attempt to win A Darwin Award*, with a giant moray eel.

https://youtu.be/OvHbvf1Xh0I

Nana for now Boatbloggers ®

Ju & Lyn

* The Darwin Awards salute the improvement of the human genome by honouring those who accidentally remove themselves from it in a spectacular manner.

More-ish Moorea

la Orana Boatbloggers ®,

It’s been a long time since we last put anything up on TheBoatBlog ®, and that’s because we haven’t actually been doing much boating to blog about. When Alice and Ben had their little baby boy, now called Orson, Lyn of course wanted to go straight over to Madrid to see him.

Orson

Aaaaaaaaaaaaw…Orson is Awesome.

Ju had to stay in Tahiti with the boat. He didn’t really get up to very much while Lyn was away, preferring a quiet time in with a few friends.

https://youtu.be/d6IrthJF8e0

A truly international lineup at Domini Scott’s Jazz Club, featuring Carlos El Tambor from Barcelona on cajon, Javier “Knuckles” Ramon from Islas Canarias also on cajon, Richard “Cookin’ Haig from Wales on blues harp. And of course the one and only Jelly Roll Ronnie from Brentford. 

Nice.

As well as starting a Divemaster course, Ju also learned a new way of getting into the dinghy.

https://youtu.be/lLHYVuAWU8g

Not bad for an old sea dog. (9.5 points for execution and technical merit. What do you reckon Paul?*)

But eventually Lyn managed to get back to Tahiti despite all the restrictions, and soon we were able to head back to Moorea which is only a few hours sail away. We even managed to pick up some crew for the voyage. 

To Moorea 3

Lyn with Clare from Tintamarre, and Kate from Barracuda. It’s fair to say, it was a pretty easy trip.

We also met up with our friends Rob and Frances from Alia Vita.

Domini  Alia Vita 3

They suggested we went for a little hike. To start off with we were all very keen.

Hike  Before

Only three and a half miles Rob said. What he didn’t say was that it was also half a mile up.

Hike route

At first it was quite easy…

Hike Road 2

But then the path started getting steeper…

Hike Road 3

And thinner…

Hike Road 4

And less like a path…

Hike Road 6

Till eventually it petered out altogether…

Hike Road 7

But we fought our way through, and eventually came across what we were looking for.

Les trois pinus.

Hike 3 Pinus

The Three Pines.

The view from the top was pretty breathtaking. 

Hike View

Not that we had any breath left to take.

Hike  After

And no wonder.

Image

SEVENTY TWO FLOORS! That’s like climbing up the Empire State Building.

It’s not surprising really. When you live on the sea, any walk is up.

The one thing that Moorea is famous for at this time of year is whale watching. Hundreds of humpback whales come up to mate, and to have their babies. We have to be careful on a boat, because one thing that can really clog up your watermaker is whale sperm. We kid you not.

But off we went to see them

https://youtu.be/-pAAttS6DFc

We tried to slide in and snorkel alongside them, but every time we did, they swam off before we could get near. Even as a trained rescue diver, Ju couldn’t keep up with a thirty tonne, fifteen metre whale. It didn’t help that at one point when we were getting close to the whales and about to jump in, the dive leader said, “We could get into the water here, but this is where there are a lot of oceanic white tip sharks. But don’t worry. If you see one, all you have to do is maintain eye contact while you swim back to the boat. If you do see it roll it’s eyes back into it’s head, it probably going to attack because that’s what happens when they open their mouths. But that’s very rare. Though last year a woman was attacked…”

Whale 1

We decided to stay on the boat.

It was fun watching the mother whale training the baby. The mother would jump out, and flap her fins around, and then the baby would copy it exactly.

Ju didn’t come back unscathed.

Wetsuit tear

It wasn’t a Great White Shark. More a Great White Bum.

Probably caused by eating this…

Crepe

A peanut butter, Nutella and squirty cream crepe. A traditional Moorean favourite. And only 4,000 calories.

But all too soon it was time to leave More-ish Moorea and head for distant shores.

Leaving Tahiti

Bye Bye Moorea. We’ll be back soon.

But before we leave you, there’s just time for the Boatblog ® competition, which is called…

Where’s Wally Rob?

Hike  Where s Wally

Answers on a large cheque please, to the usual address.

And it wouldn’t be a proper Boatblog ® without at least one Arty Farty entry. This one from Ju, called “Strange Fruit.”

Arty Farty 1

Nana for now.

Ju & Lyn


*Paul Miller. International gymnast (among many other things) and very old** friend. 

**That’s old as in we’ve known him a long time, not as in ancient.